Woolen and Worsted Spinning

The character of the yarn made from the fleece of the sheep varies depending on the breed from which the wool is obtained as well as they manner in which it is spun. The arrangement of the woolen fibers within the yarn will determine if it is a woolen or a worsted yarn. A Woolen yarn is that of which has been spun with little regard for any particular orientation of the individual fibers, the fibers being mixed and crossed as they may. Woolen yarns are a bit rough, lack luster and are prepared for handspinning by carding.

In Worsted yarns the individual fibers lie smoothly, and parallel to each other in the direction of the yarn. Worsted yarn generally has a well defined luster and are prepared for spinning by combing. Usually a worsted yarn is made from longer fibers than allowed by woolen spinning.

Selecting Wool for Spinning

Selecting a good quality wool is very important, perhaps especially true to the beginning spinner. Trying to learn spinning with a bad batch of wool can be a frustrating ordeal.

Many factors can affect the quality of a fleece, the wool of the sheep. The breed has much to do with the wool’s characteristics. So does the pasture in which the sheep have lived and grazed, as well as the climate. Drought can have the affect of causing the fiber to be shorter than normal. Too much alkali in the water the sheep drink can cause the wool to be weak and a bit harsh.

While some breeds have longer wool than others, and other breed specific qualities, when selecting a wool for spinning there are a few things to look for:

1. Uniformity of fiber length over a large area.

2. Strength and diameter of the fiber should be consistent over the length without being brittle.

3. The feel of the wool should be soft, supple, elastic and give the impression of having come from a healthy sheep. Color and luster should be good as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Fleece

Several options exist for the hand spinner today when it comes to buying wool. Prepared wool is available in rovings, pre-carded and clean. Many buy a fleece after judging at a county fair, or from a sheep farmer that specializes in wool for hand spinners. Where the wool is taken from the fleece is of consideration as well.

Shoulders and Sides - generally the choicest of the fleece in terms of softness, uniformity of character and the length and strength of the staple.

Lower Part of the Back - closely resembles the shoulder and sides, though not as soft.

Loin and Back- of good character though in contrast a bit shorter and not so fine.

Upper Parts of the Legs - Moderate in length but of coarser fiber. The presence of vegetable matter, and burrs, is to be expected.

Upper Portion of the Neck - Mostly of inferior quality, being faulty and of irregular growth, vegetable matter, and burrs, is to be expected also.

Central Part of the Back - Closely resembling the wool from the Loins and Back. Can be delicate.

The Belly - Short, dirty and of poor quality, with a tendency to be weak.

Scouring Wool

While some like to spin their wool “in the grease”, it is usually desirable to wash the wool before carding and spinning to remove the grease (sometimes called yolk) and suint the dried perspiration of the sheep, as well as removing any dirt or other matter. Washing a fleece must be done carefully, using soft water and soft soap to not injure the fiber. Sometimes, soaps having a soda base are used for scouring coarse wool or a dirty fleece. But as a rule, scouring a fleece or yarn, especially the finer grades, a soda based soap is not advisable, a soap made from a potash base being a better choice. Avoiding any caustic alkali being of prime importance. Soaps containing caustic alkali should not be used, they will entirely dissolve the fiber in the presence of hot water. In her 1987 book “Hands On Spinning”, page 110, expert hand-spinner Lee Raven defines the pH level to avoid as anything over 9-9.5 (Lee Raven’s book is HIGHLY recommended reading for new spinners). Soap for scouring should neither contain unsaponified fat as well. Matthews recommends a soap made from olive oil as being highly desirable, as well as those made from “cotton-seed oil, maize oil, tallow, oleine... and palm oil”. A soap containing some mixture of the above being acceptable also.?¹ pg 87-89

Once it was customary practice to scour wool using stale urine or lant, ammonium carbonate being the active detergent. Some sources recommending the lant being diluted 1:1 with water, others giving the ratio as one part lant to 5 parts water at medium temperature for a fine wool giving good results. The practice is said to give an excellent feel to the wool after drying.

Water temperature, for wool, should be kept below 120 deg F (Bowden gives 130 for coarse, 140 for fine wools), fibers such as Alpaca and Mohair should not be subjected to water higher than 100 deg F. (Bowden “lowest temp above 60, these “even more sensitive to temperature and free alkali than wool”)

During washing, it is important not to agitate the wool too much, the risk of felting being ever present. (limit “squeezing and pressure” Bowden) Drying after washing should be done below 100-120 degrees.